![]() ![]() PCV valve they wanted $105 dollars to do…I did it for $8 and it took 10-minutes of my time). As the tensioner wears, the belt can slip at the accessories creating noise, excessive heat at the accessory pulleys, and reducing accessory performance. I probably would have had this done at the dealership, but as I indicated in the original post, they are not known for treating their customers very well and generally, when I’ve gone there they find 3 other things that are “critical” or “necessary” and want to charge an arm and a leg to do the work (i.e. It is not safe to drive with a bad belt tensioner because the belt tensioner ensures sufficient tension to power the accessories. Finally, no lights coming on in the dash.Īs far as oil changes go, it has had regular oil changes every 3,000 - 3,500 miles. My car is currently at 99,500 miles and I Subaru recommends that this belt be changed around 100,000 miles, so it was “routine” in that it was manufacturer recommended. I suppose it could be that I’m hypersensitive to noises now that some work has been done. However, today I noticed that the car was knocking (almost sounds what I think of as a Model T) when idling. So I brought it back, he replaced it and all seemed well. The mechanic who did the work said the initial tensioner was leaking oil, and thus not applying the correct tension to the belt, which in turn was making the engine sound as if it was whirring while driving. I recently installed a starter motor and a knocking noise appeared afterward. It’s frustrating, but don’t feel too bad. There’s a possiblility the new water pump could be faulty too. The recommended maintenance interval is 100,000. If it were my car at 7-8 years old and 83,000 miles, I would be changing the timing belt as well as the other timing components to be safe. So if any of the timing components break and the engine skips time, it can cause ALOT of internal engine damage. Early or late valve timing would likely cause a knocking noise too. However the 1.8L is an interference engine. It has to be put on exactly as spec’d, the alignment marks have to be aligned correctly simultaneously on the crankshaft and camshaft, otherwise the valve timing will be early or late. If an engine mount isn’t put back on correctly or tightly enough, that could cause a noise, especially on acceleration I expect. That has to be done very carefully in order not to break something. I can’t say what is involved on your car as I’ve never done one on that make, but installing a timing belt on a Toyota Corolla (which I have done) involves removing the front engine mount, loosing the mid-engine mounts, and jacking up the engine and is a fairly invasive procedure. That indicates to me the timing belt installation may have not been done correctly, but without more info it is hard to say. It’s unusual that a tensioner would be defective after the work you had done. Just meant it in a non dscriptive sense.Like others say, we need to know more about the recent history. If a tensioner groans, you're so far over tensioned it's ready to snap the idler stud.Īll these noises are so easy to pin point with the covers removed, no guesswork at all. This is idler noise, not tensioner which I've never had make a noise as it's on the slack side of the belt. First time to the dealer last week it was identified as the water pump which was replaced under warranty but obviously not the issue. This is a 2017 Wrangler Rubicon JKU with 55k miles on the clock. Slacken the belt slightly and the noise disappears. 3.6 Pentastar belt tensioner noise (video) Hello all, Im trying to identify the source of a noise coming from my engine. ![]() Yes a brand new idler will groan if belt tension is too tight. Unless one is doing this work on a daily basis, you will forget the exact tension required. Yes I got Gates belts to run silently, but as I said ages back, they're simply not worth all the hassle. Continually did tension checks as well as monitoring the harmonics these strange 4-pulley systems generate.Ĭan honestly say I've only read of one other owner who has also gone to this much effort and it is a lot of work.īut I'm 64, retired and have time on my hands for such investigations. I fitted up belts and ran the vehicle at operating temp with NO bottom belt cover. I've experimented with belt tension a fair bit, a lot more I'd hazard than any workshop where the obvious criteria is to get the vehicle serviced and out. Unsure if the Joe Blow reference was directed at me, couldn't really care but I will offer some insight for those interested.
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